Despite being an Engineer, and a Techno-Junkie, I've always had a soft spot in my heart for the Arts.  Music, Poetry, Painting have all been a serious interest.  Despite what some people might think, Engineering is an art form - witness the Great Pyramids, Golden Gate Bridge, Concorde jetliner.  For me, at least, photography IS an art form.  I try to create beautiful images, especially ones that will draw a bunch of Oooo's and Aaaahhh's.  I've tried my hand at painting - several times - I have an eye for the compositions and colors - but my hand/eye coordination keeps me from creating what I want.




On the other hand, photography does allow me to better pursue the image making business - and digital cameras and processing software allow me to again be a serious Artist.

What follows are an assortment of photos - some aviation, some Nature, a pot pouri. For whatever it's worth, I can find things of beauty, worth photographing, everywhere I look.  The next few I took sitting right here at my computer desk, playing with my camera, looking out the window.  I didn't even have to get up out of my seat.

I try hard to take good pictures, and work very hard at it.  Many people appreciate my efforts, but not all of them understand it.  One comment I have received several times goes like this:  "Gee, your pictures are great.  It's amazing what these digital cameras can do!"  To which I reply "Yes, you just point the camera and push a button!"  Sort of like Griffey shagging fly balls or Nicklaus sinking puts.  Nothing to it!

I experiment endlessly with assorted cameras, lenses and camera settings.  Digital photography allows you to do that - without the cost of film, its developing etc - and it also gives you instant feedback on the results of your adjustments. I have taken literally hundreds of pictures of the same scene varying equipment and settings until I get it "right".  Guess I'm a Perfectionist.

Here are some tips - all FWIW.  I read many photography websites, from so-called "experts".  A lot of them don't know what they're talking about!  And many couldn't take a decent photo if their lives depended on it (Yes, I'm talking you guys at DPReview.)  Then there are the Fan-boys - like Thom Hogan who never met a Nikon he didn't like, or Ken Rockwell, who switched from Nikon to Canon, and adores everything Apple ever made.  Rockwell does have a good eye however, and can take great photos of mundane things (something I try to emulate.)  His site is very comprehensive as well, but his comments can be very opinionated (I don't mind that) as well as quite contradictory (that's harder to accept.)

People ask what brand I use.  Well, I currently shoot three makes - Canon, Nikon, and Fujifilm.  That's something most "experts" would recommend against, and on this, I agree with them.  Today's cameras have so many controls, you can get totally screwed up switching from brand to brand.  Within a single brand however, the controls, menu's and system are generally quite similar.  My camera history -- >> see Down Below.

KISS  -  Keep it Simple

Today's technology allows you to take great pictures.  Period.  Your success will become less equipment dependent and more photographer dependent.  Do you have an eye for the beauty all around us?  See some of the photos above.  And can you convert what you see into an Oooh and Aaaahhh image?  Because, as good as the cameras are, they often don't produce what you were looking for.  Actually, they often don't produce what you see with your own eyes.  Many times - most of the time - the images need to be "processed" - i.e. tweaked to get what you want.  Cropped.  Made brighter or darker.  Made sharper or more vivid.  On and on.  Many computer programs will allow you to do that these days, with endless adjustments.

Some people don't like "adjustments", including some of my friends.  They feel that adjusting an image is sacrilegious -  "Photoshopping" it into something else.  What they prefer is what is called SOOC - Straight Out Of Camera.  Somehow or other, they prefer, or think it's OK, to use the adjustments some Japanese engineer felt was a good baseline collection of settings.  For, to be accurate, the image files produced by digital cameras are already "processed"; they are processed by the manufacturer.  So, to be clear, they are only STARTING points for some sort of computer processing, whether done in-camera, or on a computer.  You can get that engineer's photographic interpretation by using an Auto or Program setting on your camera.  That doesn't make it "right"; it only makes you agree with his interpretation.  Or makes you Lazy.

I did that for many, many years - and reviewing my photos from the time, I see how bad they were (and still are.)  Those Japanese engineers are great - except when they aren't.  The PASM dial on most cameras (Program - Aperture - Speed - Manual) allows you to adjust the parameters beyond the built-in Program.  You may think this is boring, but if you're reading this, then maybe you are seeking something better, and I'm not holding back.

I "fixed" one friend's photo, a picture that he shared with me.  It had great potential, but needed fixing - too dark, too big (needed cropping) and he had the back of two people's heads right in front.  I fixed all this, cropped the image (almost every image could stand to be cropped), fixed the exposure - AND - got rid of those two heads that blocked the picture.  He didn't like my "fixing."  He said the original better reminded him of the scene as he wanted to remember it.  He apparently liked the backs of the two people's heads!  So be it; each to their own.

If that's what you want - a SOOC shot to just record a moment in time, I definitely recommend sticking to your phone camera.  I liken those crummy pictures to the traffic cameras that snap license plates at red lights and bridge tolls.  They, are, I guess, a form of photography.  If so, you're in the wrong place here!

A friend showed me a picture of his father - taken about 90-100 years ago.  He was proudly posing with his car.  I offered to "fix" the picture for him.  You can see the results below.  He definitely agreed that some pictures needed "fixing."


First, some philosophy.  Why do you take pictures in the first place?  To record some event, like a birthday party?  To share with friends - via your phone?  Or something more?  Frankly, I do all of the above myself, and saving some "moments-in-time" forever is worthwhile - but my "serious" photography is aimed at something more.  I crave those Oooohhs and Aaaahhs.  You see, as I mentioned above regarding Painting vs Photography, I view photography as an Art Form.  I came to realize a lot of that via Ken Rockwell's writings.  As TV painting artist Bob Ross often said "It's your world."  And - it is!  Rockwell likes Vivid, highly saturated, highly colorful photographs - and so do I.  So, we both shoot for that.  Others may not like that style.  It's their world too.

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Some Secrets

There are three things that control a photographic image:  Aperture, Speed, and Sensitivity

Aperture refers to how wide Open or Closed the Aperture leaves are on the lens you are using.  It is measured in f-stops - generally, about f1.2 to f22.  A low number is "Wide Open"; higher f-numbers close that opening (stop down) the lens.  The aperture controls how much light passes through the lens.  Like everything, there are trade-offs.  A wide open lens admits the most light, meaning you can shoot in darker environments.  A "Fast Lens" opens down to f2.0 or even lower.  Most consumer lenses don't like to be shot Wide Open.  Why not?  Because the lenses produces less sharp images when at or near Wide Open.  The sharpness, or Quality, of their images improves as you "Stop Down."  Even a few stops (f3.5-5.6) makes a big difference.  Stopping down too much - beyond about f 11.0 - f 14.0 also degrades the image, for reasons I will skip.  And, of course, a stopped down lens (high f-numbers) admits less light - not so good for dark subjects.

Here's another factor - Depth of Field.  A Wide Open lens (low f number) has a very short Depth of Field - the area from you to the subject, that is in focus.  Sometimes, that's what you want.  Other times, and in general, stopping the lens down increases the Depth of Field and makes a broader area in front of and behind the main subject in focus.  It's another trade-off.

 TIP:  If you don't know, try shooting at f 8.0 - a good general number for max quality.

Speed refers to shutter speed.  It's how long the shutter stays open admitting light to the film (or, these days, the sensor.)  Slow speeds admit more light for dark subjects and vice versa.  These days speeds are available from half an hour (or more) to 1/40,000 of a second - or even faster.  If you're shooting a non-moving object, a slow speed might work, or at night.  A bird in flight definitely wants a fast speed.  Speed interacts with Aperture, so Wide Open apertures want faster speeds (so as not to over-expose the image) and vice versa.  You see how these things start to play off one another?

Here's another factor - I think it's VERY BIG.  Camera Shake.  If you don't hold the camera perfectly still, your image will come out blurred.  Photographers often use tripods for that very reason.  Many, many people, in fact, don't gently release the shutter, but JAB at it, shaking the camera.  I see them do it all the time, in real time, and sure enough their picture is blurred.  If you use a long (telephoto) lens, the problem gets worse.  Some of these experts claim to be able to get sharp pictures and hold the camera very still; I try very hard, but I can't.  And as I get older, I get worse.  My BIGGEST single improvement to my photos was to speed up the shutter speed.  If I take a hit on increased ISO, so be it; it's minor.

A general photograph might be hand held at 1/60-1/125 of a second.  Try instead maybe 1/250 second.  You'll like it!  More on this later.

Sensitivity (measured in ISO) is the sensitivity of the film or sensor to light.  A low ISO (say 100) needs the most light, but also produces the sharpest images.  High ISO's (these days going over 100,000) need much less light, but also produce the fuzziest images.  In general, low ISO's are best.

Perhaps you can now see, and appreciate, how these three legs of the photographic stool play off each other.  It's tough to shoot 1) wide open, 2) at low ISO's 3) with low shutter speeds, and get good sharp pictures. That's the problem with the camera maker's engineers, and why I almost always shoot in Manual.

Exposure Compensation

Essentially all modern digital cameras have a control called Exposure Compensation.  It essentially makes the image Brighter or Darker than that which the camera's computers decided was a "proper" exposure.  Some of the controls are easier to use than others (Canon and Fuji are very easy to use; Nikon not so much.)  My sense is a lot of people ignore that control, which is a BIG mistake.  Use it!  After you compose your photo, if it looks "off", fix it with the Exposure Compensation.  Try it, you'll like  it.

The Bottom Line

Today's sensors are fantastic and give great results even at what used to be considered high ISO's.  But, you'd never know it.  Canon, in my opinion, is the worst.  They don't believe in their sensors at all.  When you shoot a Canon in Auto or Program, it wants to shoot at ISO 100.  ISO 100 likes a lot of light. In order to get that, it will begin by opening the lens Aperture - usually to Wide Open.  Automatically, they are giving you a lens setting that is not the best for the lens, along with a shallow depth of field that could be problematic.  They've set you up for a fuzzy picture.

If that doesn't give you a "proper" exposure (well balanced), the camera will start slowing down the shutter to admit more light.  A slow shutter speed is very susceptible to "camera shake."  More fuzzy pictures.

Eventually, you wind up with a wide-open lens (poor quality, fuzzy images), and very slow shutter speeds (poor quality, fuzzy images) -  BUT, they are well exposed! (not too dark or too light.)  Their aperture and shutter settings are designed to give you ISO 100 - or as close to it as it can get.

Here are two examples:  Auto Mode - Everything set by the camera.
Lens Wide Open, ISO = 100, and Shutter Speeds of 1/40 and 1/13 second.

       Here's "My Way": 

            
Lens stopped down to f 8.0; Shutter Speed 1/500 sec; ISO 640 (Camera set.)
Much better!


Sadly, it took me many years to figure out their scheme of things and why it gave me so many poor photos.  It wasn't "Me"; "They" had set me up for Failure.  Fuji and Nikon have the same "tendencies", but not, IMHO, nearly so off the wall as Canon.  They will stop down the lens and bump the ISO to give you a better result.  I'm talking Auto and Program Modes here.

Now, there are controls that allow you to rein-in some of this stuff, but I don't plan to get into all the In's and Out's here.  If Depth of Field is important, you can shoot in Aperture mode and set the lens opening accordingly.  If you're shooting, say a bird in flight (BIF), you can set a high shutter speed in Speed mode.  But, either way, the camera computer will try to adjust the other parameters, and like in Program, try to drive you to a low ISO for the sensor.

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The Secret

After years of being dissatisfied with my photos, I began analyzing them in depth.  What I found was that I was shooting at too low a shutter speed.  Either my subject moved, or I moved the camera (camera shake.)  I've watched other people take (blurry) pictures and see how they jab at the shutter button.  You need to be well braced, and shoot more like you were at the rifle range.  I am aware of that, and try real hard, but fact is - I didn't do a good job.  I was shooting too slow; and the older I get, the worse that gets!

Now, some of these photo writers brag about how that can get sharp pictures at a whole 1.0 second exposure - or even 3 seconds!  Not me.  And many modern cameras have an Image Stabilization feature that allows you to shoot well at slower speeds.  To me, that's a Bonus, not something I am going to take advantage of.

I started jacking up my shutter speeds - significantly - to 1/500 - 1/1000 sec and immediately, I saw a terrific improvement.  Like Pogo, I had met the enemy and he was ME!

Next, I worked on the Aperture.  Some of my lenses shoot "pretty good" close to wide open, but most don't.  I experimented with them endlessly.  To get my whole scene in good focus, I needed to stop down the lens - at least a few stops.  Depending on the lens, f8.0-f11.0 will give me what I want.

The only way to get a decent, clear, wide depth of field image is to stop down the lens - at least a bit, and to set a fast enough shutter speed so as to prevent camera shake.  And the only way to do that is to shoot in Manual Mode.

So, if I shoot for those "better" aperture and speed numbers, and, except on a bright day, chances are ISO 100 won't give me a good exposure (mostly too dark.)  Now is when I depend on the camera's fancy computer.  I let it set the ISO for me - Auto ISO.  I get great results, against the advice of so many of these photo "experts" and writers.  Actually, I shoot (almost) exclusively in Auto ISO - about 98% of the time.

All of which means I shoot in Manual mode - I set the Aperture and Shutter Speed and leave the camera to set the ISO.  On most of my cameras, I can save those settings to a User or Custom setting, actually there are 2 or 3 choices, and then I have MY settings all set.  Not some Japanese camera engineer, but my own.  Instead of PASM, I have my Custom 1, 2 and 3.  Try it, you'll like it.

What do I suggest? 

Shooting your kids, grandkids, dog, birthday party or general travel and landscape pictures:

Shooting in Manual at 1/125 - 1/250 /second at f8.0 and Auto ISO.

There!  You're on your way to taking great pictures!

Of course, I have many variations to the theme.  In general, if I know what I'm gonna shoot in advance, I set up the camera in advance.  Running all these controls while action is fast unfolding in front of you is NOT recommended.  In fact, it is then, when you're stuck, that you can revert to Auto or Program and let the camera do its thing.  Might not be great, but you can try and fix it afterwards.

Manual, Program, Custom

Shoot in Manual Mode?  Are you kidding me, Bob?  Many people are afraid of Manual - making all those settings etc.  They never use it.  No problem.  Most cameras have Custom settings (U1 or C1, etc.)  Mine have between 2 and 7 preset Custom setting slots.

Solution:  Set up your camera in Manual Mode - say 1/250 sec, f 8.0, Auto ISO, and then save to a Custom slot - say U1 (or C1.)  Then you can shoot all day to your hearts content - nothing to touch, just like Program mode - Point and Shoot.  Except it will be YOUR Program Mode, not THEIR Program Mode.

See how easy!

Bob's Recommendations

1- Don't buy the biggest, fanciest, most expensive camera out there.

2- Many are too big, too heavy, too complicated.

3- Never let your camera get between you and a great picture - many do!!!!

4- Upgrades - cameras, cars, computers, cell phones - are often (usually?) a step BACK.
    Don't make the manufacturer and his marketing people rich on the phony upgrade cycle.

5- Don't be afraid to buy used gear (since most of the better stuff isn't made anymore.)
    Look on eBay and other sites, and many dealers have used gear with warranties.

6- My opinion (opposite "experts"): Avoid articulating screens (the way they are all going); they get in the way, break off, are generally terrible.  Go for the "flippy" Up / Down screens, or just fixed screens.  Avoid cameras without viewfinders - they are no better than a cell phone (which you can't read in bright light.)  Avoid cameras (usually expensive) that have  LCD "Screens" on top to read out and set your controls - terrible IMHO.  Go for a camera with simple control dial(s) on top, like the two below.

7- Ergonomics is EXTREMELY important - to me, at least.  Some of these cameras (and other techno-toys) have such poor ergonomics, you wonder if the engineers have any brains at all.  I have gotten rid of some nice cameras that had such poor controls, I couldn't make them work.  Most cameras take Excellent pictures these days - you need one you can operate easily.

8-  Set up your camera in Manual, save settings to Custom slot, and shoot using that Custom slot - you'll be shooting in Program - YOUR Program!

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My two best camera recommendations:

The Fujfilm XT-20 with the 16-80 f4.0 lens ( the 27mm f2.8 lens is a great backup and makes a package  little more than an iPhone in size.)  All Fuji lenses are absolutely SUPERB.

Nikon Z-50 (not the Z-50 Mark II) with the DX16-50 lens.  Also very small and lightweight, and it shoots very well in the Program Mode.  Great pictures!

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Following my Box Camera of about 1950, then the Voightlander and Pentax of 1967, all described above, I've had a long equipment journey.

In 1987, I moved from the Pentax to the Canon 650 - a film SLR camera with computerized focus and exposure controls.


I shot hundreds of rolls of film with that camera, and it led me to stay in the Canon camp - for many years; altho I did use Fuji small Point & Shoots (like the F40fd).  About year 2000, I began trying digital photography with the Canon Powershot Series A20/A40/A60,





By about 2005, I had left film behind, forever, and in 2010 got my first DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) - a Canon T2i Rebel.  I ran the hell out of that camera!


Since then, I have been a steady Canon customer, owning the T2i, T5i, T7i, SL-1, SL-2, 80D, 90D and G9X.  About 2019, I migrated into the Mirrorless world with the Canon RP, and currently shoot a Canon R6 Mark II.  It is my only Canon camera at present, and will likely be my last.  It shoots great pictures but is too complicated.  It gets in the way of what I want to do.
Enter Fuji.  There were certain things I didn't like about the Canon RP, so I began casting about for an alternative.  I wound up with a Fuji XT-20, a small mirrorless ILC (Interchangeable Lens Camera) that looks and controls like an old film camera.  It had a steep learning curve and I almost gave up on it, but now it's my "camera of choice."  It shoots sensational photographs and all the Fuji lenses are outstanding.  It's tiny, lightweight - it's terrific!


Being impressed by Fuji, I tried some of their later and more up-scale cameras, but turned them all back in. The XT-20 does it for me - I like it so much, I bought a second one.  One of the great things about the Fuji are the Manual Controls.  On so many modern cameras, if you want to change the lens Aperture, Shutter Speed, or "Film" Speed (ISO), you have to look at LCD screens, and dive into Menu's.  The Fuji lets you do it Manually - in an instant.  I love it!!!

Lenses and Adapters - The "Glass"

In the past, once you selected a camera brand, you were pretty much "locked in" forever - or until your money ran out.  That's because, over time, you acquired more and more lenses (the glass) that worked from model to model on that brand's cameras, but wouldn't work on another brand.  Most photographers acquire a huge investment in "the glass" and so switching makes is not very easy or practical.

Then, a few years back, adapters came out that allowed cross-brand switching.  This opened up new possibilities for photographers.  In some cases, a competitive brand's lenses worked better on another camera brand than that brand's own lenses did.  In some cases, they worked better than they did on the original "home brand."!


Enter Nikon




All of my many Canon lenses worked great - in fact, better than they did on the Canon!  Also, better than some Nikon lenses I tried.  Turns out, I liked the Nikon quite a lot - it took great pictures and I liked the ergonomics.  It became one of my "Keeper" cameras.  Later, I tried a more upscale model - the Z-5, which I didn't like very much, and recently, I acquired a new model - the Z-5 Mark II.  It takes great pictures also and is similar to the Z-50, but it is much bigger and twice the weight.  Unfortunately, it has one of those articulating screens that I dislike.  I may make it my Canon tripod replacement camera, in which case I will only have Canon lenses and no Canon cameras!.

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